The Best Fencing for Goats


Black and white-spotted Nubian dairy goat with a pink collar,behind a woven wire fence.


I've been asked many times what kind of fencing works best for goats. They can be accomplished escape artists, and it takes excellent fencing to keep goats in their pen.


What is the most effective fencing for goats? I'm going to spill the beans and tell you what kinds of fencing have worked and what hasn't worked for us in our years of keeping dairy goats.


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First of all, a lone goat is more prone to escape. Goats are herd animals, and an only goat is a lonely goat. She'll get bored easily, get out of her pen, and be constantly in your front yard eating your roses, sleeping on your porch and jumping on your car. So, take my word for it, you need at least two goats to keep each other company and prevent boredom.


But the kind of fencing you use will make a difference too. Two goats can get out as easily as one - there was the summer that my yearlings were escaping daily, for instance - so you still need GOOD fences.


Four yearling dairy goats on the wrong side of the fence after jumping out of their pen.


I admit that the goat's personality makes a difference as well. Some goats are happy to stay put, while others are born wanting to explore. If your doe is happy staying in the pen, her kids are more likely to grow up knowing that they are supposed to stay there too.


After all these dire warnings, you might be wondering why someone would want to have goats in the first place? You can find out the many uses and reasons for having goats here: Why You Need Goats on Your Homestead.


I hope these goat fence ideas will save you money and time - because buying fencing that has to be replaced in two or three years will cost you more money and time in the long run.


Barbed wire fencing


Barbed wire fencing is an absolute no-no. Barbed wire (sometimes known as barb wire) was first used in the Old West to keep cattle in their pasture. It's still used today for cattle and sometimes horses. 


This type of fencing is made from two or more steel wires twisted together, with short pieces of sharp-pointed wires woven into the fencing at regular intervals. 


There are several different styles of barbed wire fencing. You can see a photo of barbed wire here.


Don't even think that barbed wire fencing will keep goats in. If a goat can get her head between the wires she'll keep going, tearing up her ears and her udder on the way out.


My neighbor up the road tried to keep his goats in with a 12-strand barbed wire fence - that's twelve parallel wires about three inches apart. My neighbor did not succeed.


Welded wire fencing


Welded wire fencing has 2"x4" holes. The joints are spot-welded together. This type of fence is not recommended for goats.


Our first goat fence was welded wire fencing (above). Notice that the intersections of the wires are simply spot welded together.


We also used it between the front yard and the road, and it still looks good there - however, the only animals in our front yard are the dogs and cats. With little to no stress on the fencing, it held its shape, but it didn't work well in the goat pen.


Goats like to stand on their fences, with their front hooves six inches or so off the ground. The welds in our fencing broke very quickly under that abuse, and our fencing was shredded in less than a year.


Pallet fences


A fence made by attaching upright wooden pallets together in a row.


This is a very old, small photo of the pallet fence we put up around our dogs' yard. 


Pallet fences work quite well if you have a source for a lot of similar-sized pallets. Drive posts into the ground and set the pallets over them so the posts are inside the pallet, then drive screws through the pallet into the next pallet to hold them together.


Ten years later our pallet fence is still standing strong. I recommend painting when you install it to help prevent the wood from weathering.


Pallet fences worked quite well to keep my horses' heads on the right side of the fence too. Actually, my horses are a big part of my fencing problem. They want the goats' hay, or the green grass that the goats tend to leave in favor of the weeds and brush.


The horses have stretched their necks over, leaned and pushed against all of our fences, and have messed up a lot of it. They've even bent our t-posts in several places.


A red plastic goat feeder hanging on a wooden pallet fence.


Cattle panels (utility panels)


We've also used 16-foot-long wire cattle panels, pictured below. They are easy to install using t-posts every eight feet. The panels are rigid, so one person can install a fence pretty easily. There is no need to "stretch" the fencing tightly like some other types of fencing.


The panels come in different gauges; the ones I bought were actually too lightweight - fine for goats but not for horses. My horses stand on the bottom wires, stretching their heads and necks over the top of the panels and bending them completely out of shape.


I love this type of fencing for goats. It keeps the goats in, and it's very easy to install. I no longer use it on fences where there are horses on the other side.


Black and white paint horse with his head over the wire fence, eating hay from a brown goat's manger.


While the cattle panels don't work well with horses, they do work very well to keep goats in, although young kids - especially mini breeds - can sometimes get through the holes.


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Cattle panels also have transportation issues because of their length. Getting a 16-foot-long panel home can be difficult unless you have a long trailer or can arrange for delivery. 


I've read that you can bend a panel in an upside-down U-shape in the back of a pickup truck, but the Chief worries that the panel might "spring back to life" while we're driving home. I've also been told that once you've bent the panel, it's hard to get it perfectly straight again.


The other disadvantage to these cattle panels is that horned goats can stick their heads through the holes and become stuck.


I once had two goats stick their heads through the same hole at the same time. They were well and truly stuck! We had to use a bolt cutter on the fence panel to get them loose. 


The moral of that story is that goats will get into trouble, and to always keep an eye on your goats.


Sheep and goat fencing


A woven wire fence attached to red t-posts with woods in the background.



Harder to put up, but very nice-looking and effective when it's done correctly, is sheep and goat fencing with each intersection of the wire "woven" or twisted together. 


Also known as woven wire fencing, this type looks similar to the welded wire fencing above, but compare the intersections of the wires and you'll see the difference.


In my opinion this sheep and goat fencing is the best fencing to keep goats in their pen.


The brand we bought has 2"x4" holes which prevents goats from putting their heads through the fence and getting stuck. (My goats don't have horns, but they can still stick their heads through some fencing options.)


It can be hard to find the right kind of woven fencing though. Some brands are manufactured so that the fencing will collapse under pressure and then "spring back to shape" when the pressure is released. 


In my experience this "no climb" fencing can be pulled down and walked right over. I've never seen it spring back to the original shape and height.


Sometimes sheep and goat fencing is called "fixed knot" fencing, or "woven wire" fencing. Regardless of what a manufacturer might call it, each intersection is tied with a knot as in the photo below, it won't collapse and is the best goat fencing on the market as far as I'm concerned. 


How do you know if that roll of fencing at the store is the right kind? See if you can fold the top down. If it bends easily, or "folds" over on itself like a hinged door, don't buy it.


Inspect the joints where the wires meet; you want a good knot at each intersection. 


In the photo below, you'll notice that the knots are above and below the joint; this is good. 


Woven wire fencing has a wire "knot" at each intersection of the 2:x4" holes in the wire mesh. The knots are above and below the joint. There is a brown goat with a blue collar in the background.


Compare the knots in the joints in the photo above with the knot in the photo below, which is a joint in "no-climb fencing." 


A picture of no-climb wire fencing. The intersections  of the 2"x4" wires have a horizontal knot.


The fencing in the photo above will simply fold over on itself and your goats or other livestock can simply walk over it. This is NOT the kind of fencing I recommend.


(Sometimes it's easier to show you what NOT to use!)


Woven wire sheep and goat fencing needs to be stretched correctly when it's installed so there is a bit of a learning curve, but it's very effective. It's more expensive than most other options, but it's worth paying for..


The best goat fencing


In our experience, the cattle panels (also called utility panels and stock or stockade panels) and properly-stretched woven wire fencing work best to keep goats in their pen. Pallet fences also work well if you have a source for the number of pallets you need.


I've not used electric netting, electric fence, or chain link, so I can't comment on how well they do or don't work.


Good fencing is expensive (unless you can find pallets in quantity). But let's face it, replacing the wrong fencing that was cheap to buy isn't cost-effective either



Are you looking for more information about goats? Here's what you need to know about homestead dairy goats.


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A black and white Nubian dairy goat behind a wire fence.



Related Posts: 
10 Must-Have Items for Goat Owners
Why You Should Have Goats on Your Homestead



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